P-2»? 



TT 520 
■ B5 
Copy 1 



I 



MANUAL OF 

GRADING AND 
PROPORTIONS 






PUBLISHED BY THE 

BERKOWICH DESIGNING ACADEMY, 

NEW YORK, U. S. A^ 



This book will be sent to any part of the United 
States, Canada and England postage prepaid upon receipt 
of pnce. 

These Books are finished in 

Paper Cover Binding $1.50 

C1.0TH Binding 2.00 

Fink Leather Binding 2.50 



L. I. BERKOWICH, 

Proprietor of 

The Berkowich Designing Academy, 

24 East Fourth Street, N. Y. U. S. A. 



A COMPLETE GRADING SYSTEM 

FOR - 

L A D I E S% 

MISSES' 

and CHILDREN'S 

GARMENTS 

A RELIABLE SELF INSTRUCTOR 

FOR 

Designers, Cutters and Tailors 




/ I 



L. I. BERKOWICH. 



A Complete Grading Manual 



OF ALL KINDS OF 



GARMENTS 

WORN BY LADIES', MISSES' AND CHILDREN. 

PROPORTIONS 

OF THE 

HUMAN FORM 

...Valuable Professional Information... 
the berkowich method of 

SKETCHING 

SCHEDULES OF ALL THE SIZES, FROM 22 TO 48 BUST. 



This Book is Edited and Drawn by 

L. L BERKOWICH, 

Principal and Proprietor of 

THE BERKOWICH DESIGNING ACADEMY, 
New York, U. S. A. 



[LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Raoeivad 

JAN 2 1904 

/copy 8 



15b 




MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



-$5pre:face:.5$- 



The author of this book has receivea hundreds of requests 
from his scholars and ex-scholars as well as from people of all 
parts of America urging and encouraging him to publish a work 
of this kind, a book which will treat on all proportions of the 
human frame and the art of grading, also measurements of lengths 
a;id width ; such as is in every day use amongst Designers. Cutters, 
Tailors, Furriers and Dressmakers. 

Schools generally charge from I25.00 to I75.00 for a similar 
course of instructions, and this book which is offered at a very 
reasonable price contains all the practicle information concerning 
proportions and the grading of patterns for Ladies', Misses' and 
Childrens' garments of every descripion besides giving the details 
of every branch, also other valuable information which is more 
then equal to a personal course of instruction in any school of 
Designing. 

To the majority of Cutters, Tailors, Cloak-makers, Dress- 
makers and Furriers who are laboring under doubts concerning 
proportions and grading, this little book will relieve them of all 
uncertainties in regard to same. 

The Method of Sketching by proportion which was 
originally invented by Mr. L. I. Berkowich and which he is teach- 
ing to his scholars at the Academy and by mail for the past ten 
years, is also given away in this book. 

THB AUTHOR. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



Figure 1* 



Illustrates the female form. The human frame is divided 
into four equal parts both in height and width by very distinctly 
marked divisions in its structure and outward form . 

1st. From the crown of the head to the center 

of breast. 
2nd. From the center of breast to the pubis 

is another fourth. 
3rd. From the pubis to the botton of the 

patella. 
4th. From the patella to the sole of the foot. 

From the tip of the index finger to the bend of the arm is 
one-fourth of the height of the body and from the bend of the 
arm to the pit of the neck is another fourth. 



MANtTAL OF CxRADTNa AND PROPORTlONvS. g 




FIGURE 1. 



lO 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



CIRCUMFERENCE. 


A. Collar bone 




around neck 


I3>2 in( 


B. '' bust 


37 


C. '' waist 


25 


I). '' hips 


43 


E. " thigh 


24 


1\ " knee 


14 


G. '' calf 


13 


H. '' ankle 


7;^ ' 


1. Sole of foot. 




ARM 




Around muscle 


14 inch 


' ' elbow 


12 


' ' wrist 


7;^ " 



Figure 2. 

THE PERFECT 36 MODEL. 

In Height and Circumfkrknck. 

HEIGHT. 
A. to B. Depth of scye. 
A. to C. Back length to 
natural waist 

C. to D. Hip line 

D. to J. Hip to pubis 



ches. 



J. to F. Eength to knee I4>^ " 

F. to G. Knee to calf 4>^ " 

G. to H. Calf to ankle lo;^ " 
H. to I. Ankle to sole 2}i '* 
J. to I. Length of leg 32 *' 
Length of arm i8j^ '* 



COMPLETE MEASUREHENT FOR DRAFTING 

a Pattern According to the present fashion. 
Around neck 13 >^ inches Across back 13 inches 

Back length to waist 15)^ 
FVont " " '' 16;^ 
" balance 19^ 

Back " 16 

Under arm length 9 

Front skirt length 43 same as hip measure, around belt 
inch less then 25 inches. 



bust 37 

* ' waist 25 

*' hips 43 

Depth of back Scye 7 
" " front " 12 
Across chest 14 



TO REMEMBER THESE MEASURES STUDY THE 

FOLLOWING RULES. 

Neck measure 3^ of 36 and i}i inches more. Waist measure 
% of 36 and one inch more. Hips 7 inches more then the bust 
(36). Depth of back scye -} of 36 and i inch more. Depth of 
front scye exacth^ ^ of 36. Across chest 2/^ inches more then j^ of 
36 and across back y^ of 36 and i inch more. Under arm length 
X of 36 for shirt waist and S)4 inches for Jackets, Cloaks, Fur 
Jackets, etc. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AXD PROPORTIONS. II 




FIGURK 2. 



MANUAI. OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 1 3 



THE ART OF GRADING. 



1 



VERY garment worn by men, women and children from a 
night gown to a fur coat is manufactured in different sizes 
in order to suit all kinds of shapes and forms, every gar- 
ment has its good fitting points as well as faults, some possess all 
the good points. In wholesale manufacturing a medium size is 
adapted for the model on which all the designs and ideas are worked 
on, and when this model is finished to the full satisfaction of the 
designer or concern all the different sizes are made from that 
model (pattern) here is where grading plays its part, here is where 
all the responsability rests on the one who grades the patterns, here 
is where the grader must have a knowledge of proportions and huw 
to apply the rules of proportions to the various fitting points, this 
should be born in mind, that it makes no difference by what S3^stem 
the pattern is drafted the grading has nothing to do with it, no 
matter whether the pattern is perfect fitting or not ; if the medium 
size fits to perfection the whole set will be perfect. In ladies 
sizes, the medium size is 36. In Misses sizes, the medium size 
is 16 years. In children sizes, the medium size is 10 years. The 
scales and diagrams that are given in this book are for the plain 
close fitting body of the child, Miss and adult. 

These three forms are strictly different from each other, the 
child grows very fast until the age of 14 years, therefore the body 
wavers in length and in circumference ; the miss does not 
grow in height as fast as the child but develops more in circumfer- 
ence, especially around the bust, until the age of 20 ; the women 
remain as they are with the exception of some ; some have extra 
large abdomans and narrow chests, also very large busts. 

No matter what kind of material you cut the pattern for ; no 
matter what style of garment ; no matter what kind of shape it 
may be, close fitting, loose fitting, half fitting, no matter into how 
many pieces the pattern is cut into, the system of grading and all 



14 MANUAI, OF GRADING AKD PROPORTIONS. 

allowances are always the same as in the plain fitting bod}^ Shapes 
Revers, Lapells, Fancy points, Scallops, Fancy straps, the wddth 
of the belts, collars, the lengths of tabs, etc. is never graded becanse 
these are portions of the garment that are simply for the benefit 
of improving the appearance of the same, and of course you must 
use your own judgment in regards to this. 

Just imagine a man, women, or child clothed in a plain tight 
fitting suit from the neck to the sole, the entire body being all 
covered, imagine the body increasing or decreasing in proportion, 
even if the suit is cut into 20 different parts the proportion will 
always be the same, accordingly. 

Any portion of a garment that has much gathers, folds, 
plaits, or is shirred is not neccessary to be graded. To obtain 
satisfactory results in grading have your model pattern cut from 
heavy paper, next have a few very sharp pencils handy, also a 
small metal ruler for measuring the necessary distances, be very 
neat, exact, accurate and have patience. 




MANUAIv OF GRADING AND PROPORTlONvS. I 5 



ADVICE TO YOUNG CUTTERS. 



1 



OOK your order ticket over carefully, ask your foreman for 
all the goods necessary for the order. Then select the 
goods, measure each piece if there is more then one, and 
take the narrowest of the lot; open it up, feel how and which way 
the nap of the goods runs spread it along the cutting board face 
up, then take the next narrowest and lay it over the other, face 
dowm; see the calculation of yardage, measure off same on layer and 
make a line across with chalk then get all the patterns together to 
be used for the order and lay them together very close according to 
the rules which are best adapted for your class of work, see that 
you did not leave out any portion of the garment, see that all the 
tfiimmings are there before you cut the layer off; should you find 
that you save about }i oi a yard or so, do not report it to the firm 
but ask the designer or foreman about it first, for he might have 
given the calculation }i of a. yard more purposely and the reason 
for doing so is to protect the firm against damages in goods, and 
mistakes sometimes made by the cutter, otherwise the firm would 
be the looser; should you find that your mark takes more than the 
calculation, then it stands to prove that your lay-out is wTong 
somewhere or some part of the garment is pieced in order to save 
material and this can onh^ be done by a cheap class of trade, now^ 
cut off both plys, then take the marker and lay it away, the bottom 
is used as a guide for the entire length of goods to be cut and be 
careful to face every ply correct until you have layed up the 
sufficient quantity, the last ply being face up and should match 
with the marker. 

(Bear in mind that the last ply you cut off should be face up 
to match with the marked pi}'), now lay your marker on top put 
heavy weights on and get your knife in order and proceed to cut. 



il__^^^^^^^^^^OFGRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



3- 



6. 



RULES NEVER TO BE FORGOTTEN. 



''ZonZ:^'''''-' "^^ ^^^- "P - ^^^^^ - you get the 
Never think you are doing your best, always try to do better. 
Double folded goods have the right side on the inside when it 

match when using two different pieces. 

jou, you can Stay around idle. ^ 

Every head cutter should adapt a certain system for regulating 
the work of the cutting department, it is the worst titgfof 
a cutter when there is more than three on the floor to go 
after the patterns himself; have aboy to attend to th" ^ 

If you think you are not born to be a cutter and you are too 
good for the trade, please take your hat and go because 
you are only taking away the place of some ^o^e who i^ 
more ambitious then you are. 



MANUAIv OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. I 7 



A LESSON ON FITTING. 



HO become an expert fitter it requires many real experiments. 
In order to give a correct theory, the writer has prepared 
this lesson to aid the beginner and enlighten those who are 
somewhat advanced. 

The first time you try on a garment you act very awkwardly 
inexperienced, and get excited easily ; you are afraid to place your 
hands on the garment to be fitted, for in your excitement you do 
not know where to begin ; at last you start to pull the garment here 
and there, dance aroand the person like a Kangaroo and get 
through in a hurry : the result is that the garment is botched up 
and put out of shape altogether. Now the measure might have 
been taken correctly, the pattern cut accordingly, but the garment 
is ruined when the fitting is not done properly. 

The majority who do fitting fail to do so to the best advant- 
age for the reason that they are not familiar with the easiest and 
most certain rectifications necessary in an ill-fitting garment. 

It is bad policy to tell your customers ' ' The garment will be 
all right" when it is not. Naturally, the in-experienced fitter is in a 
hurry and thinks that he or she can make the garment fit perfectly 
when the customer is gone. No! Never do that. Fit the garment 
to perfection and never mind how long it takes. It is much wiser 
then to have many fittings and have your customer get tired and 
disgusted with the whole job. Draw a chalk mark in the center of 
each front, see that the back, side back and under arm gore seams 
are straight and even, then take and pin the two fronts together 
from the neck down to the bottom, no matter whether it is a close 
fitting, loose, half loose, long or short garment. 

View the garment by stepping to one side, in this position 
you can see whether the garment is even all around, neck well 
covered, shoulders smooth and long enough. When you find any 
extra fulness around the bust or waist take same in under the arm 



1 8 MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 

or as circumstances may permit. When the fronts fall away instead 
of hanging straight over the abdomen then rip the shoulder seam 
and bring the fronts m the right place, then shape the neck 
accordingly. 

When the garment fits very poorly altogether, do not attempt 
to do any fitting at all, take the correct measure of the customer, 
rip the whole garment apart, and re-cut according to measure. 
When taking the measure take particular care to get the proper 
length, style, and whether single or double breasted, when the 
order is taken. 

Next study the form, whether thin, long or short neck, high 
or low chest, round, sloping or straight shoulders, large abdomen, 
large hips, whether same are rounded out suddenly or gradually, 
etc. the e3^e must be so educated as to classify with practicle 
accuracy every type of form. Sometime people are apt to force 
themselves into an unnatural position w^hen having their measures 
taken, in this instance, if the fitter chances to see the individual 
personally he should observ^e all this. Should you find it necessary 
to pad a little somewhere, do so without the knowledge of the 
customer. 

To fit a garment properly, you must not be in a hurry, on 
the contrary, take time and as much as necessary, have nothing 
else oh your mind but the fitting, be very quiet and try to avoid 
unnecessary conversation with your customer. Above all you 
must have full confidence in yourself. 

THE AUTHOR. 



MANUAIv OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 1 9 



DRAFTING BY MEASURE. 



lOU must first get familiar with the proportions of the regular 
sizes, and you v/ill find it much easier to draft a pattern to 

■ measure. After 3^ou have taken the measure very carefully 

then refer to the regular proportions as for instance the bust mea- 
sures 44 inches and the back measures 13 inches the later is equal 
to a 36 size back, therefore start to draft the back according to a 36 
size. The neck measures 1414 inches, 14}^ inches is equal to a Ao 
size, apply the grading system and make the back neck 3 inches 
and for the balance, measure the front neck then complete the 
draft. When the waist is small and the bust very large then 
make the dart or darts deep to suit the measure. 

When the bust is large but is flat and the waist is small 
then take one or two inches more then usual from the straight line 
of the draft for the back swa3^ In drafting a pattern to measure 
it is adviseable to divide the body in quarters as follows: stick a 
pin under the arm, high up at the arm hole seam, another at the 
waist line over the hip, another six inches below on the same line 
and the other in the center of back at the scye point; take all the 
measures of the back as far as under the arm then take all the 
measures of the front from the center as far as under the arm also, 
and you will get the most successful results. 

Never draft a sleeve, collar or shape by special measure, if 
you can help it^ always use a regular stock pattern for this purpose 
and shorten or lengthen saine to suit the special measurement. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



Scale of Regular Stock Patterns 

Showing how much the body, sleeve, collar and cuff increases and 
decreases in proportion. 





Ladies 
Garments. 


Misses 
Garments. 


Children 
Garments. 


Around neck 


Yz inch. 
2 inches 
lYz inches 
2 inches 


2 

I 

2 


inch. 




inch 


Around bust 


inches 

inch 

inches 


inches 


Around waist. 


inch 


Around hips 


inches 


Around the arm hole .... 


% inch 


^ 


inch 


inch 


Around muscle of arm . . 


Yi inch 


% 


inch 


% 


inch 


Around elbow 


Yi inch 


V. 


inch 




inch 


Around wrist or cuff ... . 


>^ inch 


'A 


inch 


inch 


Across the width of back 












in centre of scve 


Yz inch 


% 


inch 


■4 


inch 


Across the w4dth of chest 


Yi inch 


% 


inch 


% 


inch 


Across each shoulder. . . . 


Y% inch 


% 


inch 


% 


inch 


Length of back from collar 












bone to w^aist line 


ji;- inch 


% 


inch 


I 


inch 


Length of front from pit 












of neck to waist line. . 
Length of under arm. . . . 
Length of sleeve 


The same for 
allregularsizes 
The same for 
allregularsizes 
Always the 
s a in e except 
for extra large 
sizes, shorter 




inch 
inch 
inch 


I 
I 


inch 
inch 
inch 


Front length of skirt. . . . 

Side length of skirt 

Back length of skirt 


Always the 
same for Stouts 
frout is longer. 
The same for 
allregularsizes 
The same for 
allregularsizes 


I 

I 
I 


inch 

inch 
inch 


2 

2 
2 


inches 

inches 
inches 


Belt around skirt 


I Y2. inches 


I 


inch 


'A 


inch 


Hip around skirt 


2 inches 


2 


inches 


^Vt 


inches 


Sweep around the bottom 
of skirt 


From 3^ yds. 
to 434; yds., for 
medium size 


From 
to 4 
mediu 


3^ yds. 
yds. for 
m size 


From 

to 3|i 
mediv 


2^ yds. 




yds. for 
im size 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



21 



DIVISIONS OF 

Bust Measurement and Fractions. 



Bust. 


Halves. 


Thirds. 


Quarters. Eighths. 


Sixteenths. 


24 inches 


12 inches 


8 inches 


6 inches 3 inches 


1 14 inches 


26 


13 


sys " 


6yi 


3¥ '' 


ij^ 




28 


14 '' 


9f6 '' 


7 


' ' 3^ '' 


l8- 




30 


15 


10 " 


VA 


3>4 ^' 


I^ 




32 


16 '' 


loH '' 


8 


4 '' 


2 




34 


17 


iiA " 


8^^ 


A% '' 


2/8 




36 '' 


18 '^ 


12 '* 


9 


4>^ ^' 


2M' 




38 - 


19 


12H - 


c>< 


4,^4 " 


2^8 




40 


20 '' 


i3rV " 


10 


5 " 


2/2 




42 


21 


14 '' 


loj^ 


^ : 5% '' 


2ys 




44 


22 " 


14H ^^ 


II 


' ^ 5/2 - 


2f 




46 - 


23 " 


15 rV " 


1I>^ 


' i 5^^ '' 


2^ 




48 - 


24 


16 ^' 


12 


6 " 


3 





of 



}4 of 36 is 18 
X of 36 is 9 
»^ of 36 is 12 
% of 36 is 6 
j\ of 36 is 3 



inches 



^j of 36 is j}4 inches 

5^ of 36 is 4^2 '' 

yV of 36 is 2 14 *' 

J^ of 36 is i>^ ^^ 
Jj of 36 is A " 



^ of anything is 2 times. 
3/^ of anything is 3 times. 
)4 of anything is 4 times. 
^ of anything is 5 times. 
3/6 of anything is 6 times. 
yV of iuiything is 12 times. 



Jy of anything is 24 times. 
% of anything is 8 times. 
j\ of anything is 16 times. 
-3V of anything is 32 times. 
g\ of anything is 64 times. 




22 MANUAT^ OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



FRONT. 

DIAGRAM U 

RADING the Ladies' front (pattern) of a cloak, 
shirt waist, mantle, lining, fur jacket, eton jacket, 
double or single breasted ; it makes no difference 
for what purpose it may be, place same on light 
weight manilla paper, mark it around with a lead 
pencil, then take away the pattern and square a line across the 
bust, follow same by another square line touching the arm curve, 
from this line drop a point i inch distance as illustrated on 
diagram and draw all the lines for the grading points, with these 
lines you can grade any size from 32 to 48 bust measure by making 
the different allowances all around the different grading points. 

The Froxt Increases and Decreases for Each Size, 

Neck Curve yi inch. | ^ ^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^j^^„^_ 

Length of shoulder % *' J 

Height of shoulder yi inch. 

At the waist y^ " 

Across chest , . . .% ^' 

Across the bust at the under arm curve % *' 

This makes a difference of ^ inch across the bust for every 
front. The front of every garment is alway graded % inch across 
the bust no matter in how many pieces you may cut the garment. 
The opening of dart ( V ) ^^ darts are always the same. 
To complete a set of Fronts place same on heavy paper or 
any paper you intend to make the set of patterns out of and with a 
pin or awl perforate each size separately then mark the curves; 
with the original (36) pattern. By this method you can obtain 
any size front at once. 



MANUAL OP CRADINO AND PROPORTIONS. 23 



FRONT. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure. 




DIAGRAM 1 




24 MANUAIv OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



BACK. 

(onk-pikce) 

DIAGRAM 2. 

RADING the Ladies' one-piece back pattern of a 
cloak, mantle, shirt waist, lining, eton jacket, fur 
jacket or it makes no difference for what purpose 
it may be. 

Draw a line through the neck and shoulder 
point and center of w^aist line, also from the scye depth right 
across the bust under the arm, square a line at the arm curve, then 
recross lines as illustrated on diagram and with these lines you can 
grade any size from 32 to 48 bust measure. 

The One-Piece Back Increases and Decreases for 
Each Size, 

Back Neck Curve % inch. 1 ,/ ^^ ^ . . 

/ > X across back. 

Length of shoulder. ...... .yi. '' > 

Height of shoulder )/% inch. 

Across the waist ^/g ' ' 

" back... X *' 

*' '' bust at under arm cun^e % '^ 

" " entire bust line Yz " 

To complete a set of Backs, place same on heavy paper and 
with a pin or awl perforate each siz2 or any one 3'ou choose, then 
mark the curves with the original 36 pattern, by this method you 
can obtain any size back at once. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



25 



BACK. 

32 to 48 Bust iNIeasure. 




•fZ -o ii K ^V 



DIAGRAM 2. 



26 MANUAI, OF' GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 




BACK. 

( TWO-PI KCK.) 

DIAGRAM 3. 

RADING the Ladies' two-piece back patteftl of a 
cloak, mantle, shirt-waist, lining, eton jacket, 
fur jacket, dressing sacque or it makes no differ- 
ence for what purpose the pattern may be. 

Draw around the 36 pattern on paper with a 
lead pencil, take the pattern away and draw a line across the bust 
from the Back scye depth point then from the scye point draw all 
the grading lines as illustrated on diagram 3 and with these lines 
you can grade all sizes from 32 to 48 bust measure, perforate all the 
graded points of each size on another paper then with the 36 
pattern mark out the curves. 

The Back Increases and Decreases for Each Size. 

Back neck curve Vg inch. 1 ,/ 4-t ^ ^ 

/* V 34 across the center 

Length of shoulder ....... }^ " j 

Height of shoulder }i inch. 

Across the waist }4 " 

Across back X " 

At the waist line on each side of back is ..... }^ ' * 
(Continued on diagram 4.) 



MANUAL OP GRADINC AND PROPORTIONS. 



27 



BACK. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure. 




DIAGRAM 3. 



28 MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 




SIDE BACK. 

(continuation ok the two-pieck back.) 

DIAGRAM 4. 

RADING the side back-piece of a cloak, mantle, 
shirt waist, lining, eton jacket, far jacket, dressing 
sacqne or it makes no difference for what purpose 
it may be. 

Draw a pencil mark around the 36 pattern on 
paper. Draw a line across the bust under the arm and across the 
waist, also the bias line as illustrated on the diagram. With these 
lines you can grade all sizes from 32 to 48 bust measure; perforate 
all the graded points of each size on another paper, then use the 36 
pattern for marking out the curves. 

The Side Back-piece Increases and Decreases for 
Each Size. 

Across bust % inch, across the bust line being yi of an inch 
equally on both sides. 

Across waist ^-^ of an inch on both sides of waist line. 
The front for the two-piece back is graded bv the same rules as 
on diagram i. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



29 



SIDE BACK. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure. 







( WAIST 



jj M I 



DIAGRAM 4. 



30 MANUAI, OF GRADING AND PROPORTlONvS. 




FRONT. 

DIAGRAM 5. 

RADING the half-tight fitting front pattern of a 
fur jacket, cloak or mantle, single or double 
breasted. 

Mark around the (36 front) pattern on the paper 
then square a Hue across the bust under the arm 
follow same by another square line touching the arm curve from 
this line drop a point i inch distance as illustrated on diagram and 
draw all the rest of the lines. On these lines you can grade all 
the sizes from 32 to 48 bust measure, perforate all the graded points 
of each size on another paper, (use a pin or awl) then use the 36 
pattern for making the curves. 

The Front Increases and Decreases eor Bach Size. 

Front neck curve ]4 inch. ) ,, 

' * V across }( 

Length of shoulder yi " J 

Height of shoulder ys inch. 

Across the waist ^ " 

Across chest X inch. ^ Total )4 inch. 

Under the arm at the r across entire width 

curve X " of front (bust line). 

The opening of the dart ( V) or darts are always in the same 
position, because the allowance is on both sides. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



31 



FRONT. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure. 




DIAGRAM 5. 



32 MANUAI, OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



BACK. 

(Thrke-pieck back.) 
DIAGRAM 6. 

RADING the back of a fur jacket, cloak, mantle 
or lining. Mark around the 36 pattern on the paper, 
square a line across the bust froniscye depth, draw 
a line through the shoulder and neck point and also 
a line across the center at waist line, then recross 
as illustrated on aiagram and with these lines you can grade 
any size from 32 to 48 bust measure, perforate all the graded points 
of each size and use the 36 pattern to mark the curves. 

The Back Increases and Decreases for Each Size. 




} 



Back neck curve j/g inch. 

Length of shoulder }i " 

Across the waist }i inch. 

Height of slioulder }i " 

Across back }( inch, scye depth increases on all the patterns 
and the length from the bust line to waist line remains the same 
always. 

The skirt part of jackets, cloaks and mantles from the waist 
line down does not increase or decrease in length but only in width. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



33 



BACK. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure. 




DIAGRAM 6. 



34 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



SIDE BACK. 



(thrEe^-i^iEciv back.) 



DIAGRAM 7; 




RADING the side back-piece of a fur jacket, cloak ^ 
mantle or lining. Mark around the pattern on the 
paper,, square a line across the bust, across the waist 
line and the other lines as illustrated on diagram 
and with these lines you can grade from 32 to 48 
bust measure, the allowance is made only on one side of the pattern. 



The SiDK Back-Pieck Increases and Decreases for 
Each Size 



Arm curve ...,..-....,......,..,.,.......-....% inch. 

Across bust line ys " 

Across the waist line .....,...,,».<,,,*. ^ < ... 3^ ' ^ 



MANUAL OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



35 



SIDE BACK. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure* 




DIAGRAM 7. 



36 



MANUAIv OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



UNDER ARM GORE. 



(threk-pikce back.) 



DIAGRAM 8. 

RADING the under arm piece, of a fur jacket, cloak, 
mantle or lining. Mark around the 36 pattern on the 
paper, square a line across the bust, across the waist 
and the other lines as illustrated on diagram and 
with these lines you can grade from 32 to 48 bust 
measure, the allowances are made only on one side of the pattern. 




The Under Arm Piece Increases and Decreases for 
Each Size. 



Arm curve }i inch. 

Across bust ^ ' ' 

Across the waist ^ ' * 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 37 

UNDER ARM GORE. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure. 




I>IAGRAM 



38 MANUAI, OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 




FRONT. 

(32 to 48 Bust Measure.) 
DIAGRAM 9. 

RADING the front of a box coat, kimono, robe, etc. 
single or double breasted. Mark around the 36 
pattern with a lead pencil on the paper. Draw a 
line across the bust line touching the arm curve j. 
then square a perpendicular line across the bust line 
also touching the arm curve^ now drop a point one inch distance 
from the straight line and draw all the grading lines as illustrated 
on Diagram 9. With these lines you can grade any size from 32 to 
48 bust measure by making all the allowances for each size on all 
the guide lines, then perforate the points of each size and use the 
36 pattern for making the curves. 

Thk Front Increases and Decreases for Each Size. 

Front Neck curve. ........% inch. I ^^^^^^ ^ 

Length of shoulder .,,.,. .}i "- } 

Height of shoulder ....._,,,..,,...,... % inch. 

Across the waist. . . . . , , j^ *' 

Across chest ...,,. , , . . . . , . . X *'' 

Across the bust at the under arm cun^e X inch, this makes 
a difference of }i an inch, across the bust for every size. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 39 



FRONT. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure. 




DIAGRAM 



40 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 




BACK. 

(32 to 48 Bust Measure.) 

DIAGRAM ^0. 

RABING the Back of a box coat, kimoiio, robe, etc, 
Mark around the 36 pattern with a lead pencil on 
the paper. Draw a line across the bust line (from 
the Back Scye-Depth point) then square a perpen- 
dicular line touching the arm curve. Draw another 
perpendicular line through the entire pattern across the neck and 
shoulder point and the center at the bottom; re-cross lines as illus- 
trated on Diagram 10. With these lines you can grade all and any 
size from 32 to 48 bust measure. Use the 36 pattern for making 
the curves after you have the graded points completed. 

The Back Incrkases and Decreases eor Each Size. 

Back neck curve .- . l^g inch. ) ,, 

^ , , , y across... .... 34 

I^ength of shoulder >^ " j 

Height of shoulder % inch. 

Across the w^aist )4 " 

Across back ^ * ' 



Across the bust at the under arm curve J4 inch, this makes 
a difference of }i inch, across the bust for every size. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 4f 

BACK. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure* 




DIAGRAM 10. 




42 MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



FRONT AND BACK. 

(yoke in two pieces.) 
(32 to 48 Bust Measure) 

DIAGRAMS n and M. 

RADING the yoke of the front. As the Diagram 
illustrates this is only good for night gowns, che- 
mise, Dressing sacques and such, but for cloaks, 
waists or fur garments use the same grading points 
as on Diagram 9. Grading the yoke of the back, 

follow the same instructions as above but according to the 

Diagram 10. 

Each Size Increases and Decreases 

FRONT YOKE 

Around neck curve % inch. 

Length of shoulder Ys " 

Height of shoulder j/8 " 

Across chest ll " 



BACK YOKE. 

Around neck curve J/s inch. 

Length of shoulder ^ ' ' 

Height of shoulder , % " 

Across back ^ " 

Yokes for Misses^ garments are graded the same as on Dia- 
gram II and 12 also same instructions. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



43 



FRONT AND BACK. 

Yoke in Two Pieces. 32 to 48 Bust Measure. 




ii. lY 






iv 



ft. u 



'k 



BIKIY. yoK 



% 



^. 






i'iioi'^ 



'/y 



\ I I 

Zf ft. 



40- 



iH 3r y^ 



DIAGRAMS II-I2, 



44 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



ONE=PIECE SLEEVE. 



(32 to 48 Bust Measure.) 



DIAGRAM iZ. 




HE one-piece sleeve is graded by dfawing a line acros*^ 
both ends of arm curve and a line across both ends of 
puff curve, and the other lines see Diagram 13. The 
allowance is X of an inch on each side and j\ of an 
inch, higher on the top, the length is the same for all 

sizes. This sleeve increases and decreases for each size, }4. inch in 

width and ^V ^^ ^^ inch in height at the top. 



MANUAIv OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



45 



ONE-PIECE SLEEVE. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure. 




DIAGRAM 13. 



46 MANUAI. OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



TWO-PIECE SLEEVE. 



(32 to 48 Bust Measure.) 



DIAGRAMS H and 15. 




lAGRAM 14.— Under sleeve X i^^cli in width, the 
length the same for all sizes. 

Diagram 15. — Top sleeve X inch in width, the 
length the same for all sizes. 
Sleeves may sometimes be made shorter ot longer but this 
is only according to the trade and style* 



MANUAL 01^ GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



47 



TWO=PIECE SLEEVE. 

32 to 48 Bust Measure. 




niAGRAMS 14-15. 



48 



MANUAI, OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



YOKE. 



(in onk piece.) 

Same for Circular Cape. 

( I2>^ to 1 8 inches Neck Measure.) 

DIAGRAM J6. 

HB yoke is graded by placing the 36 pattern on a paper 
in same postion as on Diagram. Mark it around with 
a lead pencil, take the pattern away and from the front 
end drop a point 2^ inches from this point draw 
a perpendicular line (Grading line) touching the 
point at the top of center of back then for each size allow X 
inch on the grading line and % inch in the front. 

According to the Diagram, the neck increases and decreases 
yi inch but }i inch is sloped away on each side front and back, 
leaving X inch for neck (half pattern of yoke, and nearly ^ inches 
at six inches below neck curve. Around the neck when finished 
makes a difference of }i an inch for larger and smaller sizes, 6 inches 
from neck curve is i^ inches for larger and smaller sizes. 




MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



49 



YOKE. 

Ill One Piece. Same for Circular Cape. i2>^ to i8 Neck Measure 



.^. 



"»e//^ 



'^r 






'<i? 



JJki 



enej 



YOKE 












^ 



^ 



DIAGRAM 1 6, 



5^ 



MANUAI, OF Gi^ADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



CAPE. 



(With Shoui^der Dart 12^ ^o 19 Inches Neck Measure) 



DIAGRAM M. 




RADING the cape with one shoulder dart, place the 36 
pattern on a paper in same positi6ri as Illustrated 
on Diagram, mark it around with a lead pencil then 
draw a straight line across the front shoulder to the 
point of the y, then draw another, across the back 
shoulder meeting at the point of y or end of shoulder point, from 
the V point where the front and back shoulders meet. Draw 
a line across the end of the neck and centre back line. 

Extend back shoulder line i)^ inches longer then the 
shoulder and from this point draw a line straight across the front 
neck curve. Now make all the allowances on these grading lines. 
The neck increases and decreases. 

Front neck curve ]/% inch. Back neck curve ]/% inch alto^ 
gether % inch around neck and }^ inches around 6 inches below 
the neck curve, (half pattern). 



MANUAL OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 5I 

CAPE. 

^Vith vShoulder Dart. 32 to 48 Bust Measure. 




DIAGRAM 17. 



52 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



COLLARS. 



DIAGRAMS IS and 13. 




RADING collars of any description such as a stand- 
ing collar or collar band as illustrated on Diagrams 
1 8 and 19 the difference is }4 inch for each size 
finished, whether storm collars, lay down or any 
collar at all is graded )4 inch in length only. 
Sailor collars that go on blouses are graded only in the back 
neck curve X inch. The front is left as it is. 



MANUAI. OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONvS. 53 



COLLARS. 





DIAGRAMS 18-19 



54 



MANUAI, OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



FRONT. 

Misses'^ Sizes- from 14 to 20 years of age, 

DIAGRAM 20, 

HE Front pattern of a Misses^ garment is graded ex- 
actly the same as the ladies (Diagram i), whether 
tight fitting or loose ; the difference is only that the 
back length, tinder arm length and front length is 
shorter and longer. 
Diagram 20 illustrates the positions of the grading lines, 
look at same carefully and note the change in length. 

The Miss (16 years^ medium size) front pattern increases and 
decreases for each size. 




Around neck curve. ..,,.. ^ ...,., ^ inch 1 . / 

/* V 14 across, 

Ivcngth of shoulder }i, " > 

Height of shoulder . ._. 5^ inch 

At the M^aist .,.,., ^ 

Across chest X 

Across bust at the under arm curve )4 

Length of front to waist line % 

I^ength of under arm ^ 

The opening of the darts and difference should be 
illustrated on diagram. 



OS 



MANUAI. OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 55 

FRONT. 

Misses' Sizes from 14 to 20 years of age. 




IDllVOHAM 20. 



56 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



BACK. 

(misses' one-piece back) 
14 to 20 years of age. 




DIAGBtAM2K 

HK Back pattern of a Misses' garment is graded ex^ 
actly the same as the Ladies' on Diagram 2 whether 
tight fitting or loose (as on Diagram 10) the differ- 
ence is that the back is longer and shorter from 
collar bone to Depth of Scye, collar bone to waist 
line and at the under arm length. 

Diagram 21 illustrates the position of the grading lines, 
look at same carefully and note the change in length and the ex- 
tra guide lines to lengthen and shorten same. 

The Miss (16 years, medium size) back pattern increases and 
decreases for each size 



Around neck curve % inch \ j/ 

Length of shoulder }i *' i 

Height of shoulder % 

At the waist ^ 

Across the back X 

Across the back under the arm curve X 

Entire back length % 

Under arm length }i 

Back Scye depth }i 



inch 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



57 



BACK. 

Misses' One-Piece Back. 14 to 20 years of age. 




DIAORAM 21. 




58 MA:NUA;Ivi,OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



BACK AND SIDE=BACK. 

(misses' two-pieck back.) 
14 to 20 years of age. 

DIAGRAM 22. 

RADING the two-piece back ; same instructions as 
before, but study well the diagram and note the 
different change of the grading lines for the back- 
piece and the different lines for the side back- 
piece. 



The Back Increases and Decreases for Each Size. 

BACK. 

Neck curve i % inch 

vShoulder length }s " 

vShoulder height ) s " 

Across back J4 ' 

Scye depth >f ' " 

Under arm .^, ' * 

Entire back length ; . . . .'. . .)4 " 

Acro.ss the waist . ..... .X " 

SIDE-BACK.' '^ 

Arm curve; bu.st line X ^^^^h 

Under arm length ^ " 

Across the waist line X ' * 



MANUAL OF GRADIXG AND PROPORTIONS. 



59 



BACK AND SIDE=BACK. 

Misses' Two-Piece Back. 14 to 20 years of age. 




DIAGRAM 22. 



6o 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



BACK. 

(misses' thrke-pikck back.) 
14 to 20 years of age. 




DIAGRAM 23. 



O GRADE the Misses' back pattern, study the dia- 
gram. Draw all the grading lines and point off 
the different sizes of ages as illustrated 



The Back Increases and Decreases for Each Size. 

Neck curve J4 inch 

I^ength of shoulder yi 

Height of shoulder }i 

Across back X 

P>oni bu.st line to waist line ^ 

vScye Depth '/s 

Length of back to waist line ^4 

Across the waist line % 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 6l 

BACK. 

Misses' Three-Piece Back. 14 to 20 years of age. 




DIAGRAM 23, 



62 



MANl^A.I. OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



SIDE BACK and UNDER ARM GORE. 

(misses' "THREK-PIKCK BACK.) 
14 to 20 years of age. 




DIAGRAM 24, 



RADING the side back and under arm gofe. Draw 
the guide hn^-s same as on diagram 24, each is a 
difference of ^g inch in width for each size, and ^ 
inch in length for each size. Study the position of 
the grading Hues throughly before making the sizes, 



MANUAL OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



63 



SIDE BACK and UNDER ARM GORE. 

Misses' Tliree-Piece Back. 14 to 20 years of age. 




DIAGRAM- 54. 



64 



MANUAI, OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



ONE=PIECE SLEEVE. 



Misses' Sizes from 14 to 20 years of age. 



DIAGRAM 25* 




RADING the Misses' one piece sleeve pattern. Draw 
a line through the center of sleeve and re-cross lines 
from point to point, on the perpendicular line, allow 
X inch on top and % inch on bottom; on the cross 
lines allow y% inch on each of the four ends. 



The vSi.p:eve Increases and Decreases for Bach Size. 



Around muscle \ 

Around elbow V % inch 

Around (bottom) wrist J 

In length X inch, % inch on top, % inch on bottom. 



MANUAL OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 65 



ONE=PIECE SLEEVE. 

Misses' Sizes from 14 to 20 years of agf* 




/y.. 
DIACxRAM 25. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPDRTlONvS. 



BACK. 



Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 



DIAGRAM 23. 




RADING the Back pattern of Children's garments 
take particular notice of the points and guide lines 
used in this grade. Study the position of the lines 
and method, everything is marked on the diagram. 



The Back Increases and Decreases for Every Size. 



Around neck curve /i inch. 

Length of shoulder >i 

Height of shoulder X 

Across back % 

Across the bust under the arm curve ]/% 

Under arm length % 

Scye depth X 

Back length to waist i 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 

BACK. 

Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 




DIAGRAM 28, 



68 



MANUAL OF GRADTNCr AND PROPORTIONS. 



FRONT. 



Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 3"ears of age. 



DIAGRAM 27, 




RADING the front pattern of Children's garments. 
Take particular notice of the points and guide 
lines used in this grade. Study the position of 
the lines and method ; everything is marked on 
the diagram. 



Thk Front Increases and Decreases for Every Size» 



Around neck curve % inch. 

Length of shoulder yi 

Height of shoulder X 

Across the chest X 

Across the bust under the arm curve }i 

Under arm length }^ 

Front length, to waist line i 

Across bust line ^ 



MANUAL OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



69 



FRONT. 

Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 




DIAGRAM 2 7. 



66 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



TWO=PIECE SLEEVE. 

Misses' Sizes from 14 to 20 years of age, 

DIAGRAM 26, 

RADING the Misses' Top and Under-sleeve Pattern. 
Study the Diagram thoroughly before you start to 
grade the patterns. 



The Increase and Decrease on Every Size is : 

TOP SI.EEVE. 

Across the muscle X iiicli. 

Across the elbow X " 

Across the wrist % " 

In length yi inch, }{. inch on top and % inch on bottom. 




UNDER SEEEVE. 

Across the muscle X inch. 

Across the elbow X " 

Across the w^ist X " 

In length X inch, X inch on top and X inch on bottom. 



MANUAL OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



67 



TWO=PIECE SLEEVE. 

Misses' Sizes from 14 to 20 years of age 




DIAGRAM 26. 




72 MANUAL OF CxRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



BACK and SIDE BACK. 

(TWO-PIKCE BACK.) 
Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 

DIAGRAM 29. 

RADING the Back and Side Back patterns of Chil- 
dren's garments, take particular notice of the points 
and guide lines used in this grade. Study the posi- 
tion of the lines and method ; everything is marked 
on the diagram. 



Thk Back and Side Back Increases and Decreases for 
Each Size. 

BACK. 

Back neck cun^e ji inch. 

Length of shoulder }^ "^ 

Height of shoulder X ' ' 

Aci OSS back ){ * ' 

Across waist, ^ inch on each side X *' 

Scye depth X '' 

From bust line to waist line X '* 

Back length i *^ 

SIDE BACK. 

In width across bust line and waist line. J/g '' 

Under arm len^-th 3/ < ' 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 

BACK and SIDE BACK. 

Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 




DIAGRAM 29. 



yS MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



FRONT AND BACK. 

(YORK IN TWO PIECES.) 
Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 

DIAGRAMS 32 and 33. 



RADING the Front and Back Yoke Patterns of 
Children's Garments, study the Diagram and posi- 
tion of the grading lines. The rules for allowances 
is the same as on Diagrams 27 and 28. 



Each Size Increases and Decreases. 

FRONT YOKE. 

Around neck curve }i inch 

Length of shoulder % 

Height of shoulder X " 

Across chest X 

BACK YOKE. 

Around neck curve /i 

Length of shoulder , yi 

Height of shoulder X ' ' 

Across back X 




MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



79 



FRONT AND BACK. 

Yoke in Two Pieces. Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 












: '/^iMdi 




/ 


\./v^ 


> 


^ 


1 1 




yj I'neii 


{^"S^^^ 










/« 


V^ 










/ 


\\ 






B/ICK 


3% ^^f^/ 

yotih 






IHO^^ 1 \ 


mmm 








LJ-L. 




H i-^ if'»i% 


r 




5 / 


«y *ir /« /y 




\ 


\ 
\ 


1 / 

< / 

/ 

/ 


cfe^ 







DIAGI^AMS 32-33. 



76 MANUAT^ OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 

TWO=PIECE SLEEVE. 

Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 
DIAGRAM 3L 



RADING Children's top sleeve and under-sleeve pat- 
terns, stndy the diagram thoroughly before you 
start to grade the patterns. 



The Incrkask ani> Dkcreask on Every Size. 

TOP SIvEEVE. 

Across the muscle }i inch 

Across the el])ow }i " 

Across the wrist }s ". 

In length 1 inch, J4 inch on top and }4 inch on bottom. 

UNDER-SLEEVE. 

Across the muscle /i inch. 

Across the elbow yi " 

Across the wrist }i 

In length i inch, }i inch on top and )4 inch on bottom. 




i 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 

TWO=PIECE SLEEVE. 

Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 




DIAGRAM 31. 



74 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTlONvS. 



ONE=PIECE 5LEEVE. 



Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 



DIAGRAM 30. 




RADING Children's one-piece sleeve pattern. Draw 
a perpendicular line through the center, 5 inches 
distance from the left hand side and re-cross lines 
as illustrated on diagram. 

On the perpendicular line allow ^ inch on top, 
and Yz inch on bottom, and on the cross lines allow a j^ inch on 
each of the four ends as on diagram. 



The Sleeve Increases and Decreases for Each Size. 

Across muscle % inch. 

Across elbow % " 

Across bottom }i " 

In leno'th i * ' 



^ inch on top and ^ inch on bottom. 



MANUAI. OF GRADING AND PROPORTlONvS. 



/O 



ONE=PIECE SLEEVE. 

Children's Sizes from 2 to 14 years of age. 




DIAGRAM 30. 



8o 



MANUAL OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



Children's Proportions of Height. 



S^e Figure 2^ 



Age. 



A. to B. Collar bone to bust 
line 

B. to C. Bust line to waist 
line (or lenu^th of underarm 

C. to J. Waist line to pubis 
or length of rize 

J. to F. Pubis to knee 

F. to G. Knee to calf 

G. to H. Calf to ankle 

H. to I. Ankle to sole of foot.. 
A. to I. Length of entire bod3\ . 



2 


4 


6 


8 


10 


12 


5X 


sy2 


sV, 


6 


6X 


6^ 


3^ 


VA 


5X 


6 


6.3^ 


rA 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


7 


8 


9 


10 


II 


12 


3 


3^/^ 


?>% 


3^/8 


3^ 


33/ 


3 


3M' 


4/2 


S% 


6 


6>< 


I 


1% 


i^ 


1^8 


1/2 


^H 


28 


32 


36 


40 


44 


48 



14 

8j^ 



II 

13 

4 

7 

2 

52 



Proportions in Circumference. 



Age. 

Around Neck 

Waist 

*' Bust 

Seat 

Across Chest 

" Back 

lycngth of Shoulder . . . . 

Around Thigh 

" Knee 

Ankle 

*' Muscle of arm 

Elbow 

!' Wrist 



8 



10 



14 



11^2 
24 

24 
30 

5 

4^ 

12 



7/2 



12 

24 

3i>^ 
5X 
5 
A% 



7^ 
634: 



I2>^ 

24>^ 
27 

33 
5>^ 
5X 
4^ 

15 

10 
6>^ 
8>^ 
8 
6^ 



13 
25 

28>^ 

34>^ 

^A 

16/2 

II 

6^ 
8^ 
8X 
6% 



nA 
25 A 
30 
36 

6 

5 

18 
12 

7 

9- 

8>^ 

7 



14 
26 

3i>^ 

37,^ 

6;i 

6 

5% 
^9A 
13 

7X 
9^ 

^H 
1% 



14^^ 

26;^ 
33 
39, 

6X 

5X 
21 

14 

7K 
9>^ 
9 
7K 



MANUAIv OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



8i 



Hisses' Proportions of Height. 

See Figure 2* 



Age. 

A. to B. Collar bone to bust 
line 

B. to C. Bust line to waist 
line or under arm length. . . . 

C. to J. Waist line to pubis 
or rize. 

J. to F. Pubis to knee 

F. to G. Knee to calf 

G. to H. Calf to ankle 

H. to I. Ankle to sole of foot. . 
A. to I. Complete length of body 



12 


14 


16 


j8 


6^ 


e'/s 


63^ 


^y% 


1% 


VA 


8X 


w^ 


lOj/g 


II 


ii>^ 


11^ 


12 


12/2 


13 


13/2 


^H 


4 


^y^ 


4^2 


6/2 


7 


7/2 


8 


iH 


2 


2/8 


2>4^ 


49 


5J 


53 


55 



7 
9 

14 

4^ 

57 



Proportions in Circumference. 



Age. 

Around Neck 

Bust 

*' Waist 

Across Chest 

Back 

Length of Shoulder . . . 
Around Thigh 

Knee 

Ankle ., 

** Muscle of arm 

Elbow 

Wrist 



12 


14 


i2y. 


1234: 


30 


32 


20 


21/2 


I2>^ 


13 


12 


12/2 


4X 


4/8 


22 


23 


13/2 


13/ 


7/8 


7/2 


13 


13/2 


12 


i2y2 


7 


7^ 



16 



13 

34 
23 

13 

^y 
24 

14 

7/ 

14 

13 

8 



18 



ny 
36 

24>^ 

14 

13^ 

4>^ 

25 

^y 

ly 
ny 

i^y 

8/ 



14 

38 
26 

14;^ 

u 

4/ 
26 

i4>^ 

7/8 

15 

15 

9 



82 



MANUAL OF GRADINCt AND PROPORTIONS. 



Ladies' Proportions of Height. 

See Figure 2* 



Around Bust. 

A to B. Collar bone to 
bust line 

B.to C. Bust line to waist 
line or under arm. 

G. to J. AVaist to pubis 
or Rize 

J. to F. Pubis to knee 

F. to G. Knee to Calf. 

G. to H. Calf to ankle 
H. to I. Ankle to sol: 

of foot 

A. to I. Complete len- 
gth of body .' 



32 


34 


36 


.38 


40 


42 


44 


46 


Ht 


m 


7 


7 A 


JVb 


7A 


7X 


7r\ 


9 


9 


9 


9 


9 


9 


9 


9 


11% 

I3¥ 

8X 


i3J^ 


12 

14 
5 

8^ 


12X 

14/8 

9 


12^ 
14X 

9X 


123^ 
14^ 

9>^ 


13 

14/2 
6 

9^ 


13X 
10 


2 


2 1 


2|/8 


2i'« 


2^ 


2fi 


3X 


3i\ 


55% 


57 


58/8 


59X 


6or8 


6J^ 


62?^ 


63K 



48 



7)4 
9 

loX 

3^ 

64% 



Proportions in Circumference. 



Around Neck 

Bust 

Waist 

Across Chest 

" Back 

Length of Shoulder. . . . 

Around Thigh 

*' Knee 

*' Ankle 

Klbow 

Wrist 

" Muscle of arm.. 



13 


iy/2 


14 


H/z 


15 


15;^ 


16 


i6>4 


32 


34 


36 


3H 


40 


42 


44 


46 


20 


21% 


24 


25/2 


27 


28/2 


30 


31/2 


13 


13/2 


14 


i4>^ 


15 


15/2 


16 


16/2 


12 


I2>4 


13 


13/2 


14 


14/2 


15 


15/2 


7H 


7% 


5 


SVs 


5^ 


5^8 


5/2 


5^8 


24 >^ 


25 


25 >^ 


26 


26 >^ 


27 


27/2 


28 


^?>H 


14 


hH 


I4>^ 


143^ 


15 


15^ 


15/2 


7/2 


7^8 


7H 


7% 


8 


8^8 


8^ 


8^8 


12 


i2y2 


13 


13/2 


14 


I4H' 


H'A 


143/i 


7y2 


8 


8% 


9- 


9/2 


10 


\o% 


TOM 


13 


13/2 


14 


H'A 


15 


15/2 


16 i6j^) 



'7 
48 

33 
17 
16 

28>^ 

8K 

10^ 
17 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



83 



LADIES' SKIRTS. 

The Proper Length for all Occasions* 



^ \. 1 * 1 i-t r Front ... 4^ 
Regular length] ^. 

f Front 41 

Instep length -{ Side 41^ 

1^ Back 42 



Full length ( Front 44 

Dress < Side 4S)4 

Skirt i Back . . .50 to 55 

r^ .^ -o . f Front. ^8 

Outmor or Rainy o ^^ d/ 

Da>?Skirt '||-|::g^ 

The Gradi_:g of Ladies' Skirts is only in the belt i}4 inches 
and around the hips 2 inches. This is divided equally amongst 
all the gores, as many as there may be. The sweep around the 
bottom is according to the style, and this is left to the discretion 
of the designer. 



MISSES^ SKIRTS. 



Age 14 

Around belt 22 

Around hips 39 

Front length 34 

Side length .>..». 34 >^ 

Back length, , 34>^ 



16 


18 


20 


23 


24 


25 


41 


43 


45 


36 


38 


40 



36;^ 38'A 

36/2 2,?>% 






CHILDREN'S SKIRTS. 



Age.,,.,, ,.,,,.. 2 

Around belt 24 

Around hips 31 

Length all around 12 

Gored Skirt around yds 

sweep 2 

Shirred or gathered at 
the waist. Should 

be around sweep > . > 2yi 



4 


6 


8 


10 


12 


14 


24 

32K 


24;^ 
34 


25 

35K 


25K 
37 


26 

38>^ 


26;^ 
40 


14 


16 


18 


20 


24 


28 


yds 

2X 


yds 

2K 


vds 


yds 
3 


vds 

'3X 


vds 

3>^ 



2M 



2/8 



2.^ 



3/8 



2>}i 



yn 



84 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



SKIRT SCHEDULES 

From 20 to 30 inches aroand the Waist and the Dimensions of 
each Gore from 5 to H Gores^ 

If more than eleven Gores divide the number of Gores into the 
measurement of the waist. 



FIVE-GORED SKIRT. 



SEVEN-GORED SKIRT. 



Around the 


First Gore 


2d and 3d 


Around the 


First Gore, 


2d, 3d & 4th 


Belt. 




Gores. 

1 


Belt. 




Gores. 


20 inches 


2 in. 


4 in. 


20 inches 


i^ in. 


2^ in. 


21 


2rV '' 


4i '' 


21 


i/2 " 


3 


22 " 


2i ^' 


4f '' 


22 


i>^ " 


3% '• 


23 




4f " 


23 " 


i^ " 


3X " 


24 


2^ '' 


41 " 


24 


ij^ " 


3/8 " 


25 


2>^ - 


5 " 


25 


2 " 


3>^ " 


26 


2H '' 


5i " 


26 


2ys " 


3^ " 


27 


27/8 ** 


5l *' 


27 


2)4 " 


3¥ " 


28 


2|. - 


5^ " 


28 


2H " 


3/8 " 


29 " 


2^ '' 


5^ " 


29 - 


2^ " 


4 


30 


3 *' 


6 


30 


2^ " 


4>^ " 



NINE-GORED SKIRT. 



ELEv^EN-GORED SKIRT. 



Aronnd the 






2, 3- 4 &5 


Around the 




2, 3. 4. 5 & 




First Gore. 






First Gore. 




Belt. 






Gores. 


Belt. 




6 Gores. 


20 inches 


I 


in. 


2}( in. 


20 inches 


^ in. 


Ilf in. 


21 '" 


ItV 




2,% " 


21 " 


^ " 


lit " 


22 " 


1/8 




2^ " 


22 '' 


I 


2 " 


23 


I A 




2t\ " 


23 


ItV " 


2rV " 


24 


^H 




2>^ " 


24 


I>^ " 


2 A " 


25 


i^ 




27/8 " 


25 


1/8 " 


2% " 


26 


1/2 




2l4 " 


26 


IX " 


2y% " 


27 


i^ 




3 


27 


1% •' 


2rV " 


28 


15/8 




3/8 " 


28 


1)4 " 


2r\ " 


29 


1/8 




3Tff " 


29 


i,*^ " 


2ys " 


30 


I^ 




3r6 


30 


1/8 " 


2^ " 



MANUAT. OF Gl^ADINa A^T> PROPORTIONS. 85 

GRADING PATTERNS 

That are Split in many Pieces, or have Tucks and Plaits* 

Ir^alTUDY the proportions thoroughly and get familiar with the 
n^ increasing and decreasing points, then tucks and plaits 
li ^^ l will not cause you any worr}^ because they always remain 
in the same position on every size; whether large or small. 

Split patterns are graded the same as though the pattern would 
be one solid piece. If 3^ou have many pieces leave those from in the 
center of back the same and also in the front. 

The Art of Grading is an important feature in the manufactur- 
ing world, and to be master of this art is tocultivate a mild temper, 
lots of patience, and you must possess a clear head, with evenly 
balanced brains. The knowledge and instructions w^hich this 
little book contains, is enough to fit one for this responsible 
position. Yours truly, 

MANUAL OF GRADING. 



LENGTH OF GARMENTS. 

LADIEvS'. (For Medium Size, 36 Bust.) 

Hip Jacket 19 inches long in back 

Half three-quarter coat 32 ^* " 

Three-quarter coat 36 * ' " 

Full three-quarter coat 42 '* *' 

Ulster or Cravenett 54 *' " 

Negligee Gown without trail 60 " " 

Dressing vSacque and Kimono 22 " *' 

Chemise 42 '* " 

Night Gown 58 ' ' '' 

MISSES'. (For Medium Size, 16 years.) 

Hip Jacket 18 inches long in back 

Half three-quarter coat 27 ' ' " 

Three-quarter coat 32 '' *' 

Full three-quarter coat 38 " " 

Ulster or Cravenett 50 ** " 

Dressing Sacque and Kimono 20 *' '* 

Chemise 42 *^ ^* 

Night Gowns 56 *' ' ' 

CHILDREN'S. (For Medium Size, 10 years.) 

Jacket 20 inches long in back 

Reefer 32 and 34 *' ^* 

Chemise 38 ^ ^ " 

Night Gowns .,,,,,,,,,, , , , ,40 '' '* 



'^e 



MANUAI, OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



SEASONS OF THE YEAR. 



SPRING MONTHS. 

March, 31 days, 
April, 30 days. 
May, 31 days. 



AUTUMN OR FAI,!^ MONTHS, 
September, 30 days. 
October, 31 days. 
November, 30 days. 



summe:r monthvS. 
June, 30 days. 
July, 31 days. 
August, 31 days. 



WINTER MONTHS. 

December, 31 days. 
January, 31 days, 
February, 28 days. 



TABLE OF YARDAGE. 



'2)4 inches makes 1-16 of a yard. 
3 '^' '* 1-12 of a yard. 

4)4. '' " yi of a. yard. 

6 ''^ *' 1-16 of a yard. 

9 "■ *' ^ of a yard. 

12 " ** ^ of a yard. 



18 inches makes J4 of a yard, 
22'^ "■ ** )^ of a yard. 

27 '' •* 1^ of a yard. 

36 '' 



^ of a yard. 
I yard, 



MISCELLANEOUS TABLE. 



I thing- is 


1-12 


of a dozen,, 


12 things is 


r dozen. 


2 " 


1-6 


'• 


24 *' 


r-6 gross. 


3 " 


X 


<fe 


48 - 


% " 


4 " 


H 


ti 


96 - 


% " 


6 


% 


<c 


144 " 


I 


8 


% 


cs 


12 gross is 


I great gross. 



MANTJAI. OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



87 




THE ART OF SKETCHING. 

O DOUBT there are a great many people who wish that 
they would be able to make a proportionate sketch of 
a garment, some have taste but lack the knowledge of 
proportion, others lack both knowledge and taste still 
they have a determination and strong will power and 
make up their mind that they must learn the art; 
these people as a rule develop their taste in drawing and train their 
mind and hand in practice until they are able to convey their ideas 
on paper, not very artistic but more practically. Now there is no 
limit to drawing, there is a thousand or more curves to be studied 
as well as styles ; the same as in cutting garments. Now the ques- 
tion is, ** How can I learn it :* " Well here it is, study and practice 
the Diagrams Illustrated, which is the most important and which 
is taught systematically, and when 3'ou can draw the figure in both 
front and back positions, then you can draw 3'our styles on the 
figures ; when you practice the Berkowich method carefully and 
observe each dot and space, you will become familiar with the 
position of the figures so that 5'ou will be able and capable of 
drawing without using the points on the paper but you will always 
maintain tlie same in 3'our memory instead. The whole figure is 
divided into spaces, and each space should be studied and memor- 
ized before commencing the other. 



COMMENCING TO PRACTICE. 

Diagram i. — Drop four points making four equal spaces of 
any size. 

Diagram 2. — Drop two more points, one-third of the distance 
of the former. (Collar of figure). 

Diagram 3. — Space 7 is three-quarters of the original space, 
now drop two more points 8 and 9 (Shoulder length). 

Diagram 4, — Mark off three spaces to the right 10, 11 and 12 
(Shoulder length). 

Diagram 5. — Mark spaces 13, 14, 15 and 16. (Arm hole size.) 



88 MANITAI. OP GRAT3ING AND PROPORTIONS* 



The Art of Sketching a Woman's Figure 
by Proportions. 

DIAGRAMS J. 2, 3, 4 and 5* 

^ f m mm ^ mm 

® 9 m ^ m 



r y P 



It (t # 

5 

^ ^ ® ^ ® /^ (§) // (g) /^ 
/J 

® 

® /^ ® /^ ® 



MANlTATv OF GRADING ANT) PROPORTIONS. cSq 



DIAGRAM 6, 

6 

# ^ ® ir # /^ # // ® /;e ^ 

m ® 

// /^ 

Mark off two spaces, 17 and 18. 



90 MANUAI. OF GRADING AND PROPORTlONvS. 



DIAGRAM 1. 



7 
^ d) ^ # /o m // # /^ # 



/J 



(D />- <S) /^ # # 



^^^ 



2/ 



^X 



Mark off four spaces 19, 20, 2T and 22. 
The whole length of the figure from top of collar to waist line i.^ i 
(8) eight spaces. i 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 9 1 



DIAGRAM 8 

8 

i) # ® 

^ f ® ^ (§) /^ (i) // (D /^ 



/s 



// 






i) 

® ^5- (i) 2.t ® 

2-7 

Mark off three and otie-half spaces 25, 26, 27, 28 and 29. This is 
for the French long front. 



92 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



DIAGRAM 9* 






.'3 

7 



Y 6^ 



(§)---^- -(i)"' y ^ /^ (g) // 

® ^^ (i) J/ ^ J2 
® 



®*-/^-.-. 



/r 



/>- 



:?^ ® 



3r: 






Mark off four and oiie-lialf spaces 30, 31, 32, 33 and 34. The 

dotted line shows the developing cf the form. These fonr 

and a half spaces should always oro, tvv'O spaces 

ahove the waist line 25 and 26. 



MANUAL OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



93 



DIAGRAM 10, 




Mark off two more spaces for the hips from i and 2. Draw the 

outline of the form as illustrated. Practice thoroughly 

until perfect. 

DIAGRAM lU 

Illustrates the back position. All the spaces are the same as 
on Diagram 10, except the line two spaces above the waist line 
which is reversed, and at the waist line notice the change. 

The drawing of the sleeve is not given here because the author 
of this book claims that it would confuse the learner too much, 
and therefore wishes to inform the reader, that if he or she will 
send a perfect drawing of the front and back, he will send them 
instructions and diagram for drawing the sleeve, together with the 
form. 

Styles, shapes, etc., etc., can be practiced on the form by 
copying from Fashion-plates, or from the original garment. 



94 



MANUAL OI^ GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



CHILDREN'S FORM. 



DIAGRAMS J2 and 13. 




The difference in the points of the Children's form 'from the 
Women's, is that the bust curve is very flat both in the front view 
and back view, the w^aist line is straight. The spaces and propor- 
tions otherwise are the same as in the Women's figure. There is 
added a half space on each side of the w^aist to make it wider than 
the Women's in proportion, the same is for the back view. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORI'IONS. 
DIAGRAM H. 




To draw the skirt, the proportions; are also in spaces. Other* 

instructions are not necessary, as by studying the Diagram 

the rules are easily memorized. 



96 MANUAI, OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 

HOW TO KNOW THE LENGTH OF A GARMENT 

SHOWN ON A FASHION-PLATE* 

When you look at a Fashioii-Plate and you wish to know how 
long the garment is, use the foil nving rules which will guide you 
very successfully. 

As a rule Garments illustrated show both front and back views 
of same. Take either one for a guide; as for instance, w^e \n\l take 
the back view. Naturally the length of back to waist is 16 inches 
long. Now take a long narrow piece of paper, and mark on it the 
length of back to waistline, same as the Fashion-plate shows. Now 
see how many times more it measures down below the waist. If 
only half of the measure you have, or a fraction thereof, add to- 
gether with 16 inches and it will give you the entire length of 
garment. 

HOW TO KNOW WHETHER A GARMENT HAS 
BLOUSE EFFECT OR NOT, 

ON A FASHION-PLATE- 

If the belt around the waist of the skirt is not seen at all, or 
half of it is seen and it is not shaped out at the under arm, then it 
is a full blouse all around. If it is shaped at the under arm and 
the belt is seen in full view all around, except when the center of 
front is not seen, then the garment is tight-fitting in the back and 
sides, and the front is blouse effect. If the belt all around is seen 
in full view then there is no blouse effect at all. 

WHERE DOES IT OPEN AND BUTTON ? 

When the Fashion-plate shows a whole front, then the gar- 
ment is buttoned in the back; when the back is also in one piece 
then the garment buttons on the shoulder, around the arm-hole 
close to the sleeve, and at the under arm seam. 



MANUAL OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 97 



COPYING FROM FA5HI0N=PLATES. 

When you wish to copy a design from a Fashion-Plate, 
remember that it is only a drawing and not a real model, that you 
can measure from. The main point is, to copy the character of the 
style, all the rest must be designed on your foundation pattern, 
(orsloper). The dividing of the different parts must be done to har- 
monize with the proportions of your pattern. When you see any 
part of the garment without a seam, don't attempt to copy it before 
you consider whether it will be practical or not. Wherever any 
part of the garment is hidden, use lining instead of the same 
material going under there, unless you consider that the labor 
will cost more than what the material is worth, in that case do not 
do so. 

EFFECT. 

In order to produce a certain effect and you don't want the 
seam to be shown, cover same with trimming or a strap. For the 
sloping shoulder effect, you must cut a V at the shoulder near the 
neck or at the shoulder end over the arm. 



SKIRT5. 

Tf there is a seam in the center of front and a seam in the 
center of back, then there is an even number of gores. If there is 
no scam in front and a seam in the center of back then there is 
an odd number of gores and vice versa. 



'''*~^^m^sx^=^'" 



98 



MANUAL OP GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 



K_«u^^^ 


- '\; ^ '^'^^^S^^^S^ffli 






pus 


1 


l^m j|A-v ' 


rJ^^p^f^M 


[■ 


mll^^^' 


M,— p^i^^p 


91 


P^ _-^L^|| 


1 


\ . : . 


jIB 


1 



Drafting Department. 

The Largest and Best Equipped Designing" Academy in America, 
and the most successful for imparting knowledge and instruc- 
tions to Students, in every branch of Manufacturing. 

TIME IT TAKES TO LEARN. 

This is out of the question, as it all depends on the ability and intelligence 
of the individual. The school is open day and evening, and the more regular 
one attends the quicker he can learn. The tuition fee is paid once only 
until the subject is thorougly studied and completed, and the student becomes 
competent. 

Those who are not connected with the trade must pay 50 per cent. more. 



TERMS OF INSTRUCTION. 

The terms are the cheapest because the instructions are the best, and the 
time is not limited ; you take your lessons until competent, 

The lessons can be given to you, as quick as you can grasp them or other- 
wise. Each student is taught individually, and must pass an examination 
before he or she can become a graduate of this institution, and receive a 
Diploma. 



MANUAI^ OF GRADING AND PROPORTIONS. 99 



Beginners must pay full price. 

Exporionced people, or those who know a system of cutting already, twenty 
five (25) per cent, discount. 

Designers who wish to learn the system only, fifty (50) per cent, discount, 

HOW TUITION FEES ARE PAID. 

Beginners must pay half in advance, and the balance in four (4) weeks 
time, but others must pay in advance. 

EVERY COURSE THAT WE TEACH. 

1 .— lyadies' Cloaks and Suits, wholesale $ 50.00 

2.— Custom Cutting for I^adies' Tailoring 50.00 

3.— Misses' and Children's Cloaks, Suits and Dresses 50.00 

4.— I^adies' and Misses' Shirt Waists and Suits 50.00 

5,— lyadies and Misses' Shirt Waists, Suits, Wrappers, Kimono, 

Gowns, Corset Covers, Dressing Sacques, Muslin Underwear. . . 75.00 

6. — Fur garments of eyery description 100.00 

7 . — Skirts alone, of every description 35.00 

8 —Silk and Shirt Waist System only 35.00 

9. — Gents' Custom Cutting Garments of every description 50.00 

10. — Men s Boys'. Youths' and Children's Garments of every 

description, wholesale. 100,00 

Every Course includes the Grading and Designing, except Nos. 2, 8 and 9. 
Sketching is given Free wi'h a $1 00 Course, otherwise it costs S25, extra. 



DRAFTING. — Monday and Wednesday, 9 to 4 daily and 6 to 10 evenings. 
DESIGNING.— Tuesday and Friday, 9 to 4 daily and Tuesday "Evening 6 to : 
GRADING AND PROPORTIONS.— Thursday, 9 to 4 daily and 6 to 10 evenings. 
SKETCHING.— Saturday and Sunday Mornings, 9 to 12 noon. 
Lectures aud Examinaticns are held occasionally. 



JAN 2 1904 



-^} I N D E: X . i^- PAGE 

Title 5 

Preface 7 

The Female. Form, Illustrated, Proportions in Height 8-9 

The Perfect Model, Illustrated, " " 10-11 

The Art of Grading 13-14 

Advice to Young Cutters . 15 

Rules Never to be Forgotten 16 

A Lesson on Fitting 17-18 

Drafting by Measure , 19 

Scale of Regular Stock Patterns 20 

Division of Bust Measurement and Fractions 21 

LADIES. 
Grading the Front and Back 

Two-Piece Back . .... 

Far Jacket, Cloak or Mantle 

Box Coat, Kimono 

Front and Back Yoke 

Bishop Sleeve 

Tv^o-Piece Sleeve 

One-Piece Yoke 

Cape and Collars 

nissEs. 

Front and Back 

Two-Piece Back 

Three-Piece Back 

Bishop Sleeve 

Two-Piece Sleeve 



22-25 
26-29 
30-37 
3M1 
42-43 
44-45 
46-47 
48-49 
50-53 

54-57 
58-59 
60-G3 
64-65 
66-67 

68-7 T 
72-73 

74-75 
76-77 

78-79 



CHILDREN. 

Front and Back 

Two-Piece Back 

Bishop vSleeve 

Two-Piece Sleeve 

Front and Back Yoke 

Children's Proportions of Height, and in Circumference. . . . 

Misses' " " " 81 

Ladies' " " " 82 

The Proper Length of Ladies', Misses' and Children's Skirts, 83 

Skirt Schedules and the Width of Each Gore 84 

Grading Patterns, that are Split in Many Pieces 85 

Length of all Ladies', Misses' and Children's Garments, .... 85 
vSeasons of the Year, Table of Yardage, Miscellaneous Table, 86 

The Art of Sketching Ladies' Garments 87-93 

The Art of Sketching Children's Garments 94 

The Art of Sketching Skirts 95 

How to Know the Length of a Garment 96 

How to Know When a Garment has Blouse BfTect 96 

Where Does it Button ? . . 96 

How to Copy Styles. Effect. Skirts 97 

The Berkowich Academy of Designing 9S-99 



i^lfln. 



J 



